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ATHENS TRAVEL GUIDE
Turning right, a network of paths leads up Filopappou Hill, its summit capped by a grandiose monument to a Roman senator and consul, Filopappos.
Just north to the main path, which follows a line of truncated ancient walls, is the church of Ayios Dhimitrios, with Byzantine frescoes.
Above the church, further to the north, rises the Hill of the Pnyx, a meeting place in classical times for the democratic assembly.
The second-century Roman Odeion of Herodes Atticus, restored for performances of music and classical drama during the summer festival (the only time it's open), dominates the south slope of the Acropolis hill. The main interest here - abouts lies in the earlier Greek sites to the east, pre-eminent among which is the Theatre of Dionysos, beside the main site entrance on Dhionysiou Areopayitou.
One of the most evocative locations in the city, it was here that the masterpieces of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes were first performed. The ruins are impressive; the theatre, rebuilt in the fourth-century BC, could hold some 17,000 spectators.
THE AGORA AND ROMAN FORUM
Northwest of the Acropolis, the Agora was the nexus of ancient Athenian city life, where the various claims of administration, commerce, market and public assembly competed for space.
The site is a confused jumble of ruins, dating from various stages of building between the sixth-century BC and the fifth-century AD. For some idea of what you are surveying, the place to head for is the museum, housed in the rebuilt Stoa of Attalos.
In the far corner, of the agora precinct sits the nearly intact but distinctly clunky Doric Temple of Hephaistos, otherwise known as the Thission from the exploits of Theseus depicted on its friezes.
The Roman Forum, or Roman agora, was built as an extension of the Hellenistic agora by Julius Caesar and Augustus. The best-preserved and easily the most intriguing of the ruins, though, is the graceful octagonal structure known as the Tower of the Winds.
Designed in the first-century BC by a Syrian astronomer, and served as a compass, sundial, weather vane and water clock powered by a stream from one of the Acropolis springs.
Each face of the tower is adorned with a relief of a figure floating through the air, personifying the eight winds.
SYNDAGMA SQUARE, THE NATIONAL GARDENS AND LYKAVITOS
All roads lead to Platia Syndagmatos - Syndagma Square - with its busy metro station. Geared to tourism, with a main post office, banks. luxury hotels, American Express, airline and travel offices grouped around, it has convenience but not much else to recommend it.
Behind the parliament buildings on the square, the National Gardens provide the most refreshing spot in the city, a luxuriant tangle of trees, shrubs and creepers, whose shade, duck ponds, cafes and sparkling irrigation channels bring relief from the heat and pollution of summer.
At the southern end of the park stands Hadrian's Arch, erected by the Roman emperor to mark the edge of the classical city and the beginning of his own.
Directly behind are the sixteen surviving columns of the 104 that originally comprised the Temple of Olympian Zeus - the largest in Greece, dedicated by Hadrian in 131 AD.
At the northeastern corner of the National Gardens is the fascination and much-overlooked Benaki Museum, Koumbari 1 (Monday - Saturday 9am - 5pm, Thursday till midnight, Sunday 9am - 3pm, free on Thursday), with a collection that features Mycenaean jewellery, Greek costumes, memorabilia of the Greek War of Independence and historical documents, engravings and paintings.
Taking the second left off Vassilisis Sofias after the Benaki Museum will bring you to the Museum of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art, Neofitou Dhouka 4 (Monday - Friday 10am - 4pm, Saturday 10am - 3pm), which in the quality of its display methods is streets ahead of anything else in Athens.
North, past the posh shopping district of Kolonaki, a funicular at the corner of Dhoras Khistria and Ploutarhou (daily 8:45/10:30am - 12:20am) begins its ascent to the summit of Lykavitos.
The principal path up the hill begins here, too, rambling up through the woods. On top, the chapel of Ayios Yeoryios provides the main focus.
There's a cafe on the adjacent terrace and another, more pleasant one, halfway down; both have views spectacular enough to excuse the high prices.
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